From the Collections: Derek Brook
News Story
From the Collections is an ongoing series where we discover people’s favourite items from their most loved collections.
Jeroen Van Dijk is the Campaigns Manager at Bishopsgate Institute. As the first part in this series, we asked him to discuss some of his favourite items from one of our collections. Jeroen was quick to volunteer to discuss the Derek Brook Photographic Archive. He explains why here.
When did you first encounter the collection?
"I first encountered the Derek Brook archive not long after joining the team at Bishopsgate Institute. His photographs stood out to me as they're a beautiful window into London during a fascinating time in the city's history"
"Derek Brook was a photographer from New Zealand, who moved to London in the early sixties. It's one of my favourite collections as it's such a bright and uplifting part of London's history, you can feel there's this excitement in the air with young people using their voice for political change – and looking good whilst doing so."
What is it about the Derek Brook Photographic Archive that appeals to you?
"My favourite snaps from the Derek Brook archive are those of a bustling Carnaby Streets, with fashionable youngsters showing off their outfits. From tight jeans, turtlenecks, shiny leather jackets and flower motives to the famous Mary Quant dresses - it's so exciting to see people express their identity through their looks. Even the fresh, new hairstyles from that decade make an appearance, with Beatles mops-tops and beehives featuring heavily in the snaps. Besides being such a good representation of the youth's psyche in that decade and its importance for fashion history, it's also great fashion inspiration."
Self-portrait, Derek Brook
"I couldn't not include a picture of Derek Brook himself. I like the intensity of his face. It makes you consider what it might have been like to have been shot by him."
Carnaby Street
"When I think about London in the sixties, my mind automatically goes to Carnaby Street - all the fashion and youthful exuberance. There's something about this picture that I just love. I think it's the slightly awkward "posing" in front of the window, imitating the mannequin. The notions of fashion from this era seem to have such a playful tone."
The sixties were a transformative decade for London. The capital was anointed in April 1966 as “The Swinging City” by Time magazine, with London being seen as a thriving hub for art, music, and fashion. Moving to London from New Zealand in the early 1960s, Derek Brook was perfectly placed to capture this cultural moment.
Carnaby Street, 1966, Lord John
"If I'm being honest, a large part of the reason I love a lot of the Derek Brook's photos is simply that I would wear each and every one of the outfits. These two looks, for example. I'm not 100% sure if I could make the checked trousers work, but I'd certainly give them a go."
Cash Fashions
"Again, another model imitating a mannequin. It definitely feels like we might have stumbled across a trend."
Many icons of the sixties became a part of the fabric of Britain, from the Beatles to Mary Quant. London went from a conservative post-war city to a vibrant place of possibility, driven by an economic boom and a growing young population. The increased availability of the contraceptive pill and the abolition of national service helped young people feel more in control of their choices and future.
Hung on You
"Funky sunglasses and retro ties - what more is there to love about this shot"
King's Road
"Minidress and bare feet. Such a moment. Though, the thought of being barefoot on London's streets these days gives me the shudders."
Aldermaston March
"It's not all about the fashion in Derek Brook's photographs, it's also about the political moment in history that they capture. In these photos, we see pacifists marching in their thousands, to protest at the research into atomic weapons being carried out at the Aldermaston research centre in Berkshire. We often think of history in terms of the people in power, but what these pictures capture are the everyday people who wanted to make a change. These are the kind of historical materials we love at the Institute"
Donovan
"It wasn't just the people on the street that Derek Brook captured, though. He was right in the heart of London's cultural scene, doing photo shoots with musicians, such as Donovan here, and behind the scenes on film sets. We actually have a series of photos he took backstage with The Beatles, which are pretty incredible."
On Her Majesty's Secret Service
"I love this shot of Joanna Lumley and Sylvana Henriques on the set of On Her Majesty's Secret Service. Though I believe this was shot on a soundstage, the 1960s glamour that was associated with skiing - especially in James Bond movies - really comes across."
Though different people have different interpretations of the word 'glamour', and Derek Brook could seamlessly move between the worlds of big budget movie sets, and the local London nightlife scene.
Cheetah Stripper
"For this picture, and the series it comes from, Cheetah Stripper, I don't have any information on what the scenario was or what these images were intended for, but all I can think is...was this a precursor Tiger King?"
Strippers at Raymond Revue Bar
"And finally, how could I not end on this picture. The best beehive there is? It's definitely in the running. But in all seriousness, whenever I look at this and any of these pictures I can't help but think about the lives lived, and the moments in time captured. What was this woman's story? Where is she now? I find it so fascinating. I especially love that all of these photos are part of the Derek Brook collection and I can revisit them whenever I'm in need of a little inspiration."
